Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
in reply to: thermocouple calibration #3903
Dominic,
I use a switching AC-DC adapter 12V 2A and several other switching adapter too. So, my supply itself can be quite noisy.
Is your AC-DC cable overlap with the thermocouple lead? Before I solder the 10nF capacitor, if I have them overlap, the noise is awful.
But, once I solder the capacitor, if I have them overlap, there’s a tiny noise (0.3 C).
I only notice this after reading the last portion of the MAX31855 datasheet.Let us know if it doesn’t work out. We’ll do a RMA in this case.
in reply to: thermocouple calibration #3901Hi Dominic,
I’m unable to reproduce your case with either or both USB and DC adapter connected after installing the capacitor.
May I know whether you inserted a through hole capacitor on the terminal or a direct solder?
I experience fluctuating reading before when using the insertion method because my thermocouple lead is thin and although it looks like connected on the terminal block, it is not firmly connected.in reply to: RTD sensor (pt100/pt1000) input card? #3831I am interested in using the osPID with the RTD card for my brewing rig I am currently building. Do you have an ETA on when you think the RTD cards might be available for purchase??
We were slightly side tracked to release something special for osPID. 🙂
The RTD PCB design is completed but haven’t do a last round check before sending them off for fabrication.
No ETA at the moment.in reply to: Setpoint Profiles (for Reflow et al) #3798Look at the Dashboard menu on the LCD? Check the input parameter, it should be going up.
in reply to: RTD sensor (pt100/pt1000) input card? #3829The MPC342x (first link on that post) certainly looks interesting, 18bit resolution, i2c connection for around $4. Is this considered an acceptable price for components on an input shield? The 3.75 SPS would be plenty for any application I’d consider.
They are going for $3.02 for above 100 pieces (4 differential input version). Pretty cost effective compared to other similar product in the same range.
in reply to: RTD sensor (pt100/pt1000) input card? #3828That is some papers that we went through earlier on.
But, we are going with an external ADC thingy.
Resolution wise is still not decided yet though we have few of them lying around (16, 20, & even 24 (overkill)), but definitely not the on-board ADC on ATMega. A pretty slow sampling rate pretty enough for these type of application.in reply to: RTD sensor (pt100/pt1000) input card? #3826Yes, the cards will be available individually. 🙂
in reply to: RTD sensor (pt100/pt1000) input card? #3824Hi Meurig,
We are working on it but will go on a slightly different route from that link (saw that some time ago).
It’ll be a 3-wire RTD card (can be used with 2 wire also) with proper micro current biasing on the RTD sensor.
And yes, they are trickier to interface with.in reply to: Additional I/O cards #3677@AustralianRobotics wrote:
When can we buy one ? 😉
We haven’t thought of carrying these and selling them in loose quantities. But, other accessories like the sensors are coming.
But, if you need one: http://au.element14.com/omron-electronic-components/g5le-1a-dc5/power-relay-spst-no-5vdc-10a-pc/dp/5397686?Ntt=5397686in reply to: updating firmware #3770@avidan wrote:
would i need to move that AnalogButton_local file into my library folder, or should it be sufficient that its in the same folder as the pde? when the IDE creates the new folder, should i move all contents into the new folder?
No, you don’t have to.
We wanted avoid people from getting confused with other library that might installed earlier. So, we bundled them together with the main firmware in the same folder.
in reply to: updating firmware #3768@avidan wrote:
looks like this library is a dependency?
http://arduino.cc/playground/Code/AnalogButtonsinstalled it, and now all is good.
Nope, it is not that library.
It is bundled inside the osPID firmware with a local header file: AnalogButton_local.h.I’m not sure how different is that code in the link. Let me check.
in reply to: LCD Menu Explanation #3711Hi Guys,
We are working on the wiki at the moment. 🙂
in reply to: Troubleshooting the Output #3714Hi Omar,
The live/hot wire should go into VL slot of the relay 2 section of the card. Then the NO slot to your load. The neutral line should go directly to your load.
When the relay is on, the green LED (labelled Relay2) will turn on. There should be a clicking sound too as they are mechanical.When measured using a multimeter, one probe should be on the NO position and the other on your neutral line. If the relay is switching pretty fast, your multimeter might not be able to catch the reading. Also make sure the multimeter knob is on the AC position (it happens to me all the time!).
We tested every unit that goes out with real load and sensors.
I’m eager to see the results!in reply to: What power adapter to use? #3706Omar,
You can use an AC-DC adapter with voltage range 7-38VDC center positive. The on-board regulator will regulate them to 5V. We’ll engrave some marking on the back panel in future batch.
in reply to: PCB Prototyping #3703You can’t go wrong with Laen’s service: http://dorkbotpdx.org/wiki/pcb_order
We used them for our prototypes. It’s fast if you are in the USA and it’s even better now as he sends out the panel once it’s full. It’s about 9 days from the panel ship out date to get your PCB (if you are in US). ENIG finish with purple solder mask. Sexy!
But obviously there’s Seeedstudio and Iteadstudio super low cost service too. But, we have yet to try them.
Other than that, we used http://www.circuit-mart.com when we can’t afford to wait for long shipment time from US (Laen’s service).
-
AuthorPosts